Into The Wild : Carthage

Chapter VII : CARTHAGE

There was some books. . . . One was Pilgrim's Progress, about a man that left his family, it didn't say why. I read considerable in it now and then. The statement was interesting, but tough.

Mark Twain, The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn

It is true that many creative people fail to make mature personal relationships, and some are extremely isolated. It is also true that, in some instances, trauma, in the shape of early separation or bereavement, has steered the potentially creative person toward developing aspects of his personality which can find fulfillment in comparative isolation. But this does not mean that solitary, creative pursuits are themselves pathological...

[A]voidance behavior is a response designed to protect the infant from behavioural disorganization. If we transfer this concept to adult life, we can see that an avoidant infant might very well develop into a person whose principal need was to find some kind of meaning and order in life which was not entirely, or even chiefly, dependent upon interpersonal relationships.

Anthony Storr, Solitude : A RETURN TO THE SELF

The big John Deere 8020 squats silently in the canted evening light, a long way from anywhere, surrounded by a half-mowed field of South Dakota milo. Wayne Westerberg's muddy sneakers protrude from the maw of the combine, as if the machine were in the process of swallowing him whole, an overgrown metal reptile digesting its prey. "Hand me that goddamn wrench, will you?" an angry, muffled voice demands from deep within the machine's innards. "Or are you guys too busy standing around with your hands in your goddamn pockets to be of any use?" The combine has broken down for the third time in as many days, and Westerberg is frantically trying to replace a hard-to-reach bushing before nightfall. An hour later he emerges, smeared with grease and chaff but successful. "Sorry about snapping like that," Westerberg apologizes. "We've been working too many eighteen hour days. I guess I'm getting a little snarly, it being so late in the season and all, and us being shorthanded besides. He was counting on Alex being back at work by now." Fifty days have gone by since McCandless's body was discovered in Alaska on the Stampede Trail.

Seven months earlier, on a frosty March afternoon, McCand-less had ambled into the office at the Carthage grain elevator and announced that he was ready to go to work. "There we were, ringing up the morning's tickets," remembers Westerberg, "and in walks Alex with a big old backpack slung over his shoulder." He told Westerberg he planned on staying until April 15, just long enough to put together a grubstake. He needed to buy a pile of new gear, he explained, because he was going to Alaska. McCand-less promised to come back to South Dakota in time to help with the autumn harvest, but he wanted to be in Fairbanks by the end of April in order to squeeze in as much time as possible up North before his return.

During those four weeks in Carthage, McCandless worked hard, doing dirty, tedious jobs that nobody else wanted to tackle: mucking out warehouses, exterminating vermin, painting, scything weeds. At one point, to reward McCandless with a task that involved slightly more skill, Westerberg attempted to teach him to operate a front-end loader.

"Alex hadn't been around machinery much," Westerberg says with a shake of his head, "and it was pretty comical to watch him try to get the hang of the clutch and all those levers. He definitely wasn't what you'd call mechanically minded." Nor was McCandless endowed with a surfeit of common sense. Many who knew him have commented, unbidden, that he seemed to have great difficulty seeing the trees, as it were, for the forest. "Alex wasn't a total space cadet or anything," says Westerberg; "don't get me wrong. But there was gaps in his thinking. I remember once I went over to the house, walked into the kitchen, and noticed a godawful stink. I mean it smelled nasty in there. I opened the microwave, and the bottom of it was filled with rancid grease. Alex had been using it to cook chicken, and it never occurred to him that the grease had to drain somewhere. It wasn't that he was too lazy to clean it up—Alex always kept things real neat and orderly—it was just that he hadn't noticed the grease."

Soon after McCandless returned to Carthage that spring, Westerberg introduced him to his longtime, on-again, off-again girlfriend, Gail Borah, a petite, sad-eyed woman, as slight as a heron, with delicate features and long blond hair. Thirty-five years old, divorced, a mother of two teenage children, she quickly became close to McCandless. "He was kind of shy at first," says Borah. "He acted like it was hard for him to be around people. I just figured that was because he'd spent so much time by himself.

"I had Alex over to the house for supper just about every night," Borah continues.

"He was a big eater. Never left any food on his plate. Never. He was a good cook, too. Sometimes he'd have me over to Wayne's place and fix supper for everybody. Cooked a lot of rice. You'd think he would of got tired of it, but he never did. Said he could live for a month on nothing but twenty-five pounds of rice.

"Alex talked a lot when we got together," Borah recalls. "Serious stuff, like he was baring his soul, kind of. He said he could tell me things that he couldn't tell the others. You could see something was gnawing at him. It was pretty obvious he didn't get along with his family, but he never said much about any of them except Carine, his little sister. He said they were pretty close. Said she was beautiful, that when she walked down the street, guys would turn their heads and stare."

Westerberg, for his part, didn't concern himself with McCandless's family problems. "Whatever reason he had for being pissed off, I figured it must have been a good one. Now that he's dead, though, I don't know anymore. If Alex was here right now, I'd be tempted to chew him out good: 'What the hell were you thinking? Not speaking to your family for all that time, treating them like dirt!' One of the kids that works for me, fuck, he don't even have any goddamn parents, but you don't hear him bitching. Whatever the deal was with Alex's family, I guarantee you I've seen a lot worse. Knowing Alex, I think he must have just got stuck on something that happened between him and his dad and couldn't leave it be."

Westerberg's latter conjecture, as it turned out, was a fairly astute analysis of the relationship between Chris and Walt McCandless. Both father and son were stubborn and high-strung. Given Walt's need to exert control and Chris's extravagantly independent nature, polarization was inevitable. Chris submitted to Walt's authority through high school and college to a surprising degree, but the boy raged inwardly all the while. He brooded at length over what he perceived to be his father's moral shortcomings, the hypocrisy of his parents' lifestyle, the tyranny of their conditional love. Eventually, Chris rebelled—and when he finally did, it was with characteristic immoderation.

Shortly before he disappeared, Chris complained to Carine that their parents' behavior was "so irrational, so oppressive, disrespectful and insulting that I finally passed my breaking point." He went on:

Since they won't ever take me seriously, for a few months after graduation I'm going to let them think they are right, I'm going to let them think that I'm "coming around to see their side of things " and that our relationship is stabilizing. And then, once the time is right, with one abrupt, swift action I'm going to completely knock them out of my life. I'm going to divorce them as my parents once and for all and never speak to either of those idiots again as long as I live. I'll be through with them once and for all, forever.

The chill Westerberg sensed between Alex and his parents stood in marked contrast to the warmth McCandless exhibited in Carthage. Outgoing and extremely personable when the spirit moved him, he charmed a lot of folks. There was mail waiting for him when he arrived back in South Dakota, correspondence from people he'd met on the road, including what Westerberg remembers as "letters from a girl who had a big crush on him, someone he'd gotten to know in some Timbuktu—some campground, I think." But McCandless never mentioned any romantic entanglements to either Westerberg or Borah.

"I don't recollect Alex ever talking about any girlfriends," says Westerberg. "Although a couple of times he mentioned wanting to get married and have a family some day. You could tell he didn't take relationships lightly. He wasn't the kind of guy who would go out and pick up girls just to get laid."

It was clear to Borah, too, that McCandless hadn't spent much time cruising singles bars. "One night a bunch of us went out to a bar over in Madison," says Borah, "and it was hard to get him out on the dance floor. But once he was out there, he wouldn't sit down. We had a blast. After Alex died and all, Carine told me that as far as she knew, I was one of the only girls he ever went dancing with."

In high school McCandless had enjoyed a close rapport with two or three members of the opposite sex, and Carine recalls one instance when he got drunk and tried to bring a girl up to his bedroom in the middle of the night (they made so much noise stumbling up the stairs that Billie was awakened and sent the girl home). But there is little evidence that he was sexually active as a teenager and even less to suggest that he slept with any woman after graduating from high school. (Nor, for that matter, is there any evidence that he was ever sexually intimate with a man.) It seems that McCandless was drawn to women but remained largely or entirely celibate, as chaste as a monk.

Chastity and moral purity were qualities McCandless mulled over long and often. Indeed, one of the books found in the bus with his remains was a collection of stories that included Tolstoy's "The Kreutzer Sonata," in which the nobleman-turned-ascetic denounces "the demands of the flesh." Several such passages are starred and highlighted in the dog-eared text, the margins filled with cryptic notes printed in McCandless's distinctive hand. And in the chapter on "Higher Laws" in Thoreau's Walden, a copy of which was also discovered in the bus, McCandless circled "Chastity is the flowering of man; and what are called Genius, Heroism, Holiness, and the like, are but various fruits which succeed it."

We Americans are titillated by sex, obsessed by it, horrified by it. When an apparently healthy person, especially a healthy young man, elects to forgo the enticements of the flesh, it shocks us, and we leer. Suspicions are aroused. McCandless's apparent sexual innocence, however, is a corollary of a personality type  that our culture purports to admire, at least in the case of its more famous adherents. His ambivalence toward sex echoes that of celebrated others who embraced wilderness with single-minded passion—Thoreau (who was a lifelong virgin) and the naturalist John Muir, most prominently— to say nothing of countless lesser-known pilgrims, seekers, misfits, and adventurers. Like not a few of those seduced by the wild, McCandless seems to have been driven by a variety of lust that supplanted sexual desire. His yearning, in a sense, was too powerful to be quenched by human contact. McCandless may have been tempted by the succor offered by women, but it paled beside the prospect of rough congress with nature, with the cosmos itself. And thus was he drawn north, to Alaska. McCandless assured both Westerberg and Borah that when his northern sojourn was over, he would return to South Dakota, at least for the fall. After that, it would depend.

"I got the impression that this Alaska escapade was going to be his last big adventure," Westerberg offers, "and that he wanted to settle down some. He said he was going to write a book about his travels. He liked Carthage. With his education, nobody thought he was going to work at a goddamn grain elevator the rest of his life. But he definitely intended to come back here for a while, help us out at the elevator, figure out what he was going to do next." That spring, however, McCandless's sights were fixed unflinchingly on Alaska. He talked about the trip at every opportunity. He sought out experienced hunters around town and asked them for tips about stalking game, dressing animals, curing meat. Borah drove him to the Kmart in Mitchell to shop for some last pieces of gear.

By mid-April, Westerberg was both shorthanded and very busy, so he asked McCandless to postpone his departure and work a week or two longer. McCandless wouldn't even consider it. "Once Alex made up his mind about something, there was no changing it," Westerberg laments. "I even offered to buy him a plane ticket to Fairbanks, which would have let him work an extra ten days and still get to Alaska by the end of April, but he said, 'No, I want to hitch north. Flying would be cheating. It would wreck the whole trip.'"

Two nights before McCandless was scheduled to head north, Mary Westerberg, Wayne's mother, invited him to her house for dinner. "My mom doesn't like a lot of my hired help," Westerberg says, "and she wasn't real enthusiastic about meeting Alex, either. But I kept bugging her, telling her 'You gotta meet this kid,' and so she finally had him over for supper. They hit it off immediately. The two of 'em talked nonstop for five hours."

"There was something fascinating about him," explains Mrs. Westerberg, seated at the polished walnut table where McCandless dined that night. "Alex struck me as much older than twenty-four. Everything I said, he'd demand to know more about what I meant, about why I thought this way or that. He was hungry to learn about things. Unlike most of us, he was the sort of person who insisted on living out his beliefs.

"We talked for hours about books; there aren't that many people in Carthage who like to talk about books. He went on and on about Mark Twain. Gosh, he was fun to visit with; I didn't want the night to end. I was greatly looking forward to seeing him again this fall. I can't get him out of my mind. I keep picturing his face—he sat in the same chair you're sitting in now. Considering that I only spent a few hours in Alex's company, it amazes me how much I'm bothered by his death."

On McCandless's final night in Carthage, he partied hard at the Cabaret with Westerberg's crew. The Jack Daniel's flowed freely. To everyone's surprise, McCandless sat down at the piano, which he'd never mentioned he knew how to play, and started pounding out honky-tonk country tunes, then ragtime, then Tony Bennett numbers. And he wasn't merely a drunk inflicting his delusions of talent on a captive audience. "Alex," says Gail Borah, "could really play. I mean he was good. We were all blown away by it."

On the morning of April 15, everybody gathered at the elevator to see McCandless off. His pack was heavy. He had approximately one thousand dollars tucked in his boot. He left his journal and photo album with Westerberg for safekeeping and gave him the leather belt he'd made in the desert.

"Alex used to sit at the bar in the Cabaret and read that belt for hours on end," says Westerberg, "like he was translating hieroglyphics for us. Each picture he'd carved into the leather had a long story behind it."

When McCandless hugged Borah good-bye, she says, "I noticed he was crying. That frightened me. He wasn't planning on being gone all that long; I figured he wouldn't have been crying unless he intended to take some big risks and knew he might not be coming back. That's when I started having a bad feeling that we wouldn't never see Alex again."

A big tractor-semitrailer rig was idling out front; Rod Wolf, one of Westerberg's employees, needed to haul a load of sunflower seeds to Enderlin, North Dakota, and had agreed to drive McCandless to Interstate 94. "When I let him off, he had that big damn machete hanging off his shoulder," Wolf says. "I thought, 'Jeeze, nobody's going to pick him up when they see that thing.' But I didn't say nothin' about it. I just shook his hand, wished him good luck, and told him he'd better write."

McCandless did. A week later Westerberg received a terse card with a Montana postmark:

April18. Arrived in Whitefish this morning on a freight train. I am making good time. Today I will jump the border and turn north for Alaska. Give my regards to everyone. Take care, Alex

Then, in early May, Westerberg received another postcard, this one from Alaska, with a photo of a polar bear on the front. It was postmarked April 27, 1992. "Greetings from Fairbanks!" it reads,

This is the last you shall hear from me Wayne. Arrived here 2 days ago. It was very difficult to catch rides in the Yukon Territory. But I finally got here.

Please return all mail I receive to the sender. It might be a very long time before I return South. If this adventure proves fatal and you don't ever hear from me again, I want you to know you're a great man. I now walk into the wild.

Alex.

On the same date McCandless sent a card bearing a similar message to Jan Burres and Bob:

Hey Guys!

This is the last communication you shall receive from me. I now walk out to live amongst the wild. Take care, it was great knowing you.

Alexander.